Course Advice

Advice for summer rock climbing and scrambling courses

Introduction
Most of my courses are run in The English Peak District, North Wales and the West coast of Scotland.
All of these areas are clearly very different and so different gear will be necessary on different courses. That said there are some similarities in technical gear choice and clothing that may be of some help to you before you arrive.

As always if in doubt ask, email or phone before a course just to make sure.

Check out the links section for my preferred shops and suppliers.


Scrambling and Mountaineering courses


Rucksack
Very basically a bag that you can get all your gear in for the day, will be comfortable and won’t fall apart after it gets scrapped on some rocks.
As always you’ll need to get all your gear inside, gear hanging off will get snagged or ripped off. A basic design without too many straps and buckles is best. 35-45litres should be fine.
Examples, 45Lt POD Cragsac. 45L Crux

Waterproofs
For any type of British mountaineering waterproofs are a must. If you intend to be away from shelter for more than 5 or 6 hours then they should always travel with you. I have left the car on a bright summer’s day in Scotland with out a cloud in the sky and a good forecast only to be rained on for most of the day.
Today’s waterproofs are often lightweight and flexible giving a good range of movement in your arms and legs. Longer arm length is a good idea and pockets that you can access when you are wearing a rucksack and harness. A good hood that goes over your helmet or rolls away in windy weather helps as well.

Examples, Mountain Equipment Changabang Jacket and Drilite Plus trousers.

Boots
Boots for mountaineering are probably the most important piece of gear. Your feet are your link to the ground, a ground that is often wet, slippery and broken. If you get it wrong you will suffer so take your time and remember that everyone has a different view, they are your feet so don’t rush.
For scrambling a boot that is lightweight with a narrow toe and lacing that goes a long way forward is best. Make sure your foot doesn’t move around to much, however don’t forget to have some room at the front for walking downhill after a long day of going up.

For wider (British) feet look at Scarpa boots and for narrow (Continental) feet look at La Sportiva.

Technical equipment for scrambling and mountaineering courses

Helmet
You only get one head so look after it. If your helmet is comfortable you will wear it, if it isn’t then you won’t. Make sure as well that you can get a lightweight hat underneath for colder weather.

Examples, Petzl Charlet Elios or Meteor III

Harness
A harness for mountaineering should be lightweight, comfortable and simple to put on. Generally you will be carrying less on long easy routes than on harder shorter routes so 4 gear loops should be fine. Try and get a harness with a central belay/ abseil loop at the front for descending. You will generally wear more in the mountains than on a valley crag, so don’t get something with lots of padding, it just adds weight.

Examples, Black Diamond New Bod, DMM Super Couloir.

Rack
All of the hardware of climbing can be supplied what ever course you are on, however if are starting to build a rack this a good starter,

3 ‘D’ shaped screw gate karabiners
2 HMS or pear shaped screw gate karabiners
2 Snapgate karabiners
A belay device ( ATC or Bug)
2 120cm slings (Dynemma)
2 Prussik loops made from 6mm cord and 1.5m each
1 nut key

Or if you’re really keen,

1 set of walnuts on wire
1 set of Rockcentics or torque nuts
6 quickdraws
2 60cm slings (Dynemma)
6 snapgate karabiners


Other bits and pieces
Gloves- leather palms and tight fitting to stop rope burn.
Lightweight hat

Rock climbing courses


Harness
For rock climbing courses you will need a harness that has some more padding and about 5 gear loops. Because you will wear a similar amount of clothing every time you climb you won’t need adjustable leg loops.

Examples, Black Diamond focus or DMM Renegade

Rock shoes
The most important interface between you and the rock. Well fitting and lightweight. Good quality rubber that lets you mould or feet to small edges and shapes in the rock.
Rock shoes will either be soft thin sole or have more padding and depth. The less you have to walk anywhere the less rubber you need on your shoes, however if you plan on walking off the top of a multi pitch crag you will need something thicker.
Rock shoe design is changing continually so try out lots, good shops should let you try on shoes and see how they feel on climbing holds bolted on the shop wall.

In North Wales go to ‘Joe Browns’ in Llanberis High St or in the Peak District go to ‘Outside’ in Hathersage. Both shops offer good advice and range.

Scottish Winter Mountaineering

Introduction course kit advice
Scottish winter mountaineering can be cold, wet and miserable if you don’t dress and prepare correctly.
The weather can be very variable in Scotland so versatility is the name of the game with equipment. Everything you have on needs to be well fitting and hard wearing.
These notes are to make sure you arrive at a course with the right equipment and clothing so you can maximise your enjoyment of Scottish winter mountaineering.

The layer system
The basic principle is for your clothing to work together. A base layer should be long sleeved and long legged and be able to wick moisture away from your skin. Next you should wear mid layers of fleece. It is better to wear two or three thinner layers then one thick one because this traps more air and keeps you warmer. Power stretch fabric is particularly good for this purpose.
After your mid layer you will need a shell layer, top and bottom, to keep out moisture and let your body get rid of sweat.
The idea is that you always keep your base and shell layers on and adjust your mid layers according to your needs.

Ice Axe
A general mountaineering axe around 55-65cm.
Example – DMM Cirque

Crampons
12 point crampons with a simple strapping system and front points. A crampon bag will help to stop other pieces of kit getting spiked.
Example – DMM Aiguille

Boots
Boots for introduction and walking courses should be of the four Season or B2 type. They need to compatible with the crampons you will be using and not to tight as you will be wearing more socks than normal.
Example- Scarpa, New Manta M4. La Sportiva Nepal Extreme Evo

Gaiters
To fit your boots and to stop snow getting inside and getting your feet wet.
Example- Outdoor design, alpine gaiter.


Water proof trousers
Your trousers need to be very hard wearing and made of a breathable fabric. You will be wearing waterproofs for much of the time so they will need to be well fitting and comfortable. Trousers with braces or salopettes usually work best. ¾ or full length zips can aid removal if they get to hot with out taking your boots off.
Example - Mountain Equipment Dri lite trousers

Waterproof Jacket
Your jacket should be made of a breathable fabric. It should have a large hood with draw cords to keep it around your face. It should have lots of room to fit extra layers and have storm closures at the wrist. Pockets should be large and have zips on.
Example - Mountain Equipment Changabang

Gloves
Waterproof gloves rarely work well in Scotland, however much you spend on them. It’s far better to have two or three pairs of cheaper gloves than one expensive pair. That said gloves will still need to be thick and have enough dexterity to operate zips and things.
A good approach is to have a pair of thinner gloves for walking and then a thicker pair to put on when it gets very cold. You can then have a spare pair in your bag if you need them.
Example – Mountain equipment Guide Glove

Hats
A warm hatis always needed and should be able to fit under a helmet. Always take a spare.

Ski goggles
When the snow gets blown around it can be very hard to see without them

Rucksack
For most courses you will need a rucksack of around 40 litres. You will be carrying all you need for the day for about 6 hours so it will need to be comfortable. All rucksacks will need to be lined with a heavy weight plastic bag to keep stuff in side dry.
Example – POD, Crag sac.

Depending on your course you may also need

1;50,000 waterproofed Map
Type 4 Silva Compass
Emergency foil blanket
Small flask
Small head torch
Walking poles (Black Diamond Expedition)

Any other specific items of kit will be discussed nearer the time of you course. This list is to act as advice only and if there are other items of kit you always take into the hills then please bring it along.

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